If you wish to get the job done right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. As soon as upon a time, this involved spending considerable cash. Now there are most likely half a dozen out there that are eminently inexpensive. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is two separate jobs. First, you get to handle powder fouling. Second, you need to get rid of copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They are available in.
Take your patch rod, and put 3 solvent spots up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and lumps and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
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If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent spot up the bore and let it sit, muzzle slightly down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, but if it has green or blue discolorations, back to the J-B.
As a guideline, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I've had one or 2 cases where a barrel all of a sudden started to group as I reached the end of the process, however I've had far more burglaries that made no difference at all.
They work, in some cases, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the possibility. They're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They want them spotless. And immaculate is an excellent way to go.
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The steps to appropriately clean your rifle depend upon whether you are doing a field stripping or complete disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field stripping in this post. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the gun aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most crucial step in the whole cleansing process.
, and eliminate any loose particles that may be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One common myth is that more is better when it comes to lubrication of your firearm. You want to properly lubricate where needed, but too much can cause excessive residues, which can lead to breakdowns and dealing with concerns (slippery). Lubing cloths are an exceptional tool since they assist manage the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any given area of your weapon.
The treatment is simple. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Action 1.) Enable it to sit, and remember that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Bill Buckley Note: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. Once you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have been damp with a regular cleaning solvent. Run 3 or 4 dry patches down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.